PappaRich, new Malaysian at QV

Is there anything Melbourne loves more than a new Malaysian restaurant?  PappaRich is at the old site of Old Kopitiam Mamak at QV, and despite its somewhat secluded location, it's already jumping.

This is a big chain in Malaysia.  The ordering is really streamlined (see below) and there's a big open grill where you can spy your satays and roti coming to life.

It's a big menu with loads of glossy pictures, which I love.  There's a big section of things with super-soft Asian-style bread, which is very interesting!

To order, write your numbers on this funny little pad that feels like something out of a board game and press the buzzer.  A staff member whizzes past to grab the docket, before returning with your bill stapled to the order form.  It sounds impersonal but all the staff were very friendly.

Char kway teoh, $11.90

Unfortunately this char kway teoh was a confoundingly huge BA-BOWWW fail.  The thin noodles were wrong (someone correct me if I'm wrong about this), there was no wok hei and the sauce was incorrect, being too sweet - it tasted almost like pad Thai.  The whole thing tended towards glugginess.  Such an odd thing to stuff up!

Roti, $5.50

This roti plate was excellent though - the roti is made in house on a big flat plate and is super delicate inside with gorgeous crispy edges.  Included in the price are tastes of wonderul yellow split dea dal, full of earthy popped mustard seeds; a little chicken curry-style gravy, full of warming cardamom and sweetly cooked onion without a hint of bitterness; and jammy, spicy sambal.  Total bargain light lunch at only $5.50!

Teh, $3.90 and barley drink, $3.50

The tea wasn't quite right - it wasn't tannic enough, as good teh should be.  The barley drink was new for me and surprisingly good, warm, sweet and almost viscous.  Apparently they do organic soy milk drinks too (they were out that day).  Don't bother with this anchovy sambal if you already have sambal in your meal - the anchovies were almost nonexistent anyway.

The roti win outweighed the CKT fail, and I'm keen to try more at PappaRich.  They have a vegetarian section with mock meat dishes (including a few yum cha-style items) that definitely looks worth trying.  Satays look good too.  Check out Urbanspoon for a staggering amount of user reviews - it's certainly captured Melbourne's attention.



NOTE!  Gurney Drive in West Melbourne was previously highly recommended on these fair pages.  It's now turned into Kari Leaf and from two separate reports from trusted sources, it's very disappointing.  Proceed at your own risk!

PappaRich (Facebook)
Shop 11, QV Square, QVB - cnr Lonsdale and Swanston (one level up from the food court)
Hours:  Lunch and dinner 7 days



View Footscrayfoodblog reviews in a larger map

Two great bloggers I know, Bryan (@fatbooo) and Winston (@winceeee), are stepping up and doing "Live Below the Line", a challenge in which they live on a meagre $2 worth of food per day for 5 days, to raise awareness of extreme poverty and raise funds for the Oaktree Foundation.  Have a read about it on their blogs and perhaps even consider sponsoring them.  Bryan's even going to take it up a notch, giving up an extra western-world luxury like hot water or electronic gadgets for each day of the challenge - culminating in no food at all on the final day.  I'm really looking forward to reading how their experiences went.

Annam Supermarket

I shouldn't say this about Footscray, but the parking situation really gives me the irrits.  It's so hard to just duck down for something when you spend half the time circling looking for a spot and then having duels over parking spaces.  A great alternative for Asian groceries is Annam on the West Footscray/Braybrook border.

I remember when Minh Phat opened in Richmond.  It was bright inside, had long aisles and it was so easy to find things.  Sometimes it's fun to rummage but other times you just want to grab and go without playing Where's Wally with the kecap manis.

Annam is spotlessly clean and very well organised.  There are a few gaps in the range (NO CRISPY PRAWN CHILLI) but it's got most of the bases covered...

....like giant packets of my favourite (MSG-coated) crackers.  I don't know if they still are, but they used to be called "Want Want" brand crackers.  You have one and then you just waaaant waaaant moarrrrr.

A small but respectable Japanese section.  Did you know Ebi are now doing a range of Japanese groceries including Japanese (ie, not the expensive Spiral Foods one I buy) dashi stock with no MSG?

These Mae Ploy pastes are quite decent, last for ages and here are $4.20 for a 1 kg tub!!!  The photo doesn't really give the scale.

Among many, many others, turmeric noodles for Mi Quang, a half soup/half noodle dish.  Footscray's Sen have an unreal version, the photo of which I cannot find, which is odd because I file all my photos so meticulously.*

*Lie.

Oh happy day - a small but neat and tidy noodle and tofu selection.  I am so over buying chow mein-style yellow noodles (good for Grandpa's special noodles) and having them go mouldy long before the use-by date, which happens far more often than it should.

Fresh herbs and leafy veg, covered this day with wet newspaper to keep them fresh.  See here hard-to-find rice paddy herb and sawtooth coriander!  See these in action at a Saigon pho shop, thanks to Bryan (@fatbooo).

All of this for under $16.  Don't bother with this rice wine - they didn't have any shao hsing wine and it isn't a substitute.  I will try using it for cooking sake in Japanese recipes.  I like this Yenson's ready-fried tofu for stir-fries, salads, rice paper rolls - anything really.  Wontons are for wontons and tamarind for tamarind paste for proper pad thai.

These are banana crack.  They are tiny Thai bananas, dried yet still so moist.  I am addicted!

There's a freezer section to cruise too and Annam also sell a small range of chicken cuts, so you really can get everything there.  Just...  Hands off the bananas.  They're all mine.

Annam Supermarket
1/75a Ashley Street, Braybrook
Phone:  9687 3330
Hours:  TBC



View Footscrayfoodblog reviews in a larger map

VinTam's Bakery

Poor old Docklands.  Remember the burning luxury yacht last month?  This tweet pretty much sums up the mood about our waterfront precinct.

The problem with these manufactured areas (think Southbank and Fed Square) is they don't really develop naturally.  In food terms, they open ready-populated with cafes and restaurants that have been installed to hit certain price points and not much else.  I was at Fed Square recently and asked the usher at ACMI, "Where's the best coffee place here?"  She looked at me helplessly and we both smiled.  "Degraves Street?" she finally offered.

That's why VinTam's Bakery, tucked away in Docklands, is really exciting.  Walk past endless cookie-cutter panini bars and you'll come across this bakery and Vietnamese cafe, so popular it has reversed the trend and actually taken over an empty shop next door.

They do good banh mi, from mixed ham to nem nuong (a springy, hot pink pork kebab) plus a menu of home-style Vietnamese dishes like ca ri ga (chicken curry), Vietnamese coleslaw and pho.

Beef pho, $10

This sliced beef pho was delish and could hold its head up anywhere along Hopkins Street.  The beef, tender brisket and rare wafer-thin slices, was tasty and the broth well seasoned and rich with hints of star anise.  There was only one measly sprig of Thai basil, but perhaps the punters around here don't add it and so they're understandably cutting their losses.  

BBQ chicken banh mi, $6.50

This banh mi was literally heavy in its paper bag.  It was light on salad but so generous with yummy chopped chicken thighs luxuriating in a hoi sin glaze.  The bread was proper and the chilli was plentiful.  It's not Nhu Lan but a good effort all the same.  Other banh mi varieties are slightly cheaper at $5.50.

Com tam, $10

This classic com tam had a sweet and tender pork chop, generous broken rice and lovely sunny egg.  It didn't quite match up to Footscray but in the local stakes it's good.  "Broken rice" is literally broken rice.  It's long grain rice like jasmine, broken into pieces.  It used to be a cheap by-product of the milling process but now it's produced on its own merits.  It's stickier than normal rice and soaks up the dressing better.

The staff are lovely and it gets really busy around office worker feeding time.  There are multiple friendly people serving so it doesn't take long.  If you score a sunny day, it's gorgeous to sit outside and there's a big area where the kids can run around.

Aww, Docklands isn't that bad after all.  As for coffee in Fed Square...well...  Make a run for it down Flinders Street to the Banana Alley Vaults, where you'll find the delightful T-Roy Browns.  This little coffee cave is well worth the walk.  (Check 'em out at Milk Bar Mag too.)



VinTam's Bakery
Shop 109, 111 Merchant Street, Docklands
Hours:  Mon-Fri day time, closed weekends


View Footscrayfoodblog reviews in a larger map

The best breakfast in Footscray

I'm loving our two new cafes, but it's time to take it back to the old school.  This is a no baked eggs zone.  No microbrew lattes.  No smashed avocado - unless it's in a Vietnamese smoothie with heaps of condensed milk.

This plate of love is called banh cuon and it's amazing.  At the bottom are fresh rice flour crepes, filled with minced pork and mushrooms and rolled up.  The translucent rolls are topped with stacks of fresh, crunchy bean sprouts and herbs, while a smooth Vietnamese pork sausage (or cha lua) croons back-up harmonies.  In the wings is a banh cong, a type of deep-fried glutinous rice flour muffin full of earthy whole mung beans.  Drown it all with heaps of seasoned, sweet fish sauce.  A refreshing, satisfying breakfast, with golden crunchy muffin, lightly savoury beans, rich pork in slippery rice pancake and a riot of salad crunch on top.

Dinh Son, an unassuming, very traditional cafe at the edge of Little Saigon market, is your purveyor of fine banh cuon.  It's not on the menu so you have to know to ask for it (they understand my mangled Vietnamese, so you should be right.  I say "banh kwon with everything" which does the job).

On weekends you can sometimes catch the ladies making the crepes on a little stove near the front counter, filling each delicate crepe with pork mixture and teasing it gently from the blackened frypan.

Oh, and did I mention it is EIGHT BUCKS?  Yes.

I don't think this bakery in Little Saigon Market is new, but it's had a bit of a revamp.  They only seemed to do cakes before (including naturally purple Swiss rolls made with yams) but now have banh mi (Vietnamese rolls).  We grabbed two breadsticks, a banh mi Nha Trang (60 cents) and a banh mi Ha Noi (80 cents).  The Ha Noi version was particularly good, with a kind of crackle on top.

On the hunt for the elusive single golden pagoda rice wine, which is the only one to buy apparently.  You will often see these in the Asian grocers of Footscray - boxed shirts, "luxury goods" sets and even 3D shoes, all made entirely of paper.  They're for burning at funerals so that the dead can take their goods to the afterlife.

Really??  A noodle box joint in Footscray (Nicholson Street Mall).  Because there is obviously a lack of cheap, good noodles in Footscray.  OK...

My favourite place - the Yen Huot Gift Shop on Paisley Street, which a reader once told me they call "the Emporium".  Every imaginable thing is for sale here, from toys like the Barbie-esque "Benign Girl" to plastic kids bottles that look ripe for a recall.  I swear each time they get a new delivery, they just scatter the new stock on top of the old.  I wouldn't be surprised if there was an entire Vietnamese grandma and accompanying shopping cart entombed under a cascade of crappy toys.  It's so disorganised but everyone shops there, the proprietors are lovely and there's no better place to buy my gas stove lighters ($1.50) and bobby pins and hair elastics (like, $1, compared to Coles' outrageous $5 or more prices for 10 stingy hair ties).

Quick pit stop at the halal butcher for fresh lamb, $7.50/kg for minced and if I recall correctly, $10 for diced.  Other butchers can be double these prices.  Which halal butcher?  Why, the halal butcher right next to the Club X and "Ram Lounge".  Only in Footscray!  (Cnr of Irving and Nicholson, if you're not sure.)

What's this?  Another new Footscray cafe!  This is Konjo Cafe, and the owners have an original restaurant in Collingwood.

The coffee they use is Djimma from Ethiopia.  They're only doing coffee at this stage but have a few bikkies on offer too.

The milk wasn't as silky and luscious as it should ideally be, but the underlying flavour of the Djimma blend or variety was sweet, well balanced and delicious.

OOH!  That's exciting.  Please tell me it's lunch time already?!

***

A new blog you should add to your reading list is "Krapow" by Andy and Tina, who are very knowledgeable about Thai and Vietnamese food.  As well as unearthing some winning "secret" Asian eateries in the CBD, they're extremely passionate about Footscray.  For starters check out their wrap of the New Year Festival, Vietnamese snacks in Footscray, and $5 crab from Dinh Son.  And at risk of losing my opportunity to win it, also check out their (non-sponsored, non-PR) Meera Freeman cookbook giveaway!


View Footscrayfoodblog reviews in a larger map

Chicco

Was Touks, now...  Chicco!  The newest member of the Seddon family has grace and poise, but is still friendly and inviting.

The decor is gorgeous - if you squint your eyes, you could be in a coffee plantation out of an Isabel Allende novel.  Hanging baskets with curling creepers, old lace atop dark wood tables and cushions fashioned from old coffee sacks.  It sounds whimsical but it isn't - everything works together harmoniously.  The floor is cool polished concrete, each table has nice salt on it, and the front windows open right up to create a big, airy and refreshing space.

Latte, $3.50

Chicco use Padre coffee, as do Footscray Milking Station, locally roasted in Brunswick.  This wasn't quite as velvety as a latte from the Milking Station, which might have something to do with MS's primo Slayer machine.  Still, a very nice cup.

Babycino, $0.50

Babycinos are just too adorable!

I love the menu - it's visually appealing and adventurous in its content.  Breakfast veers away from boring build-your-own plates to dabble in unusual touches like eggs with dukkah (a Middle Eastern nut and spice mix), minted eggplant puree, beetroot relish and house-cured salmon.  There's organic bacon as an extra, as well as chillies!

Roasted red pepper and cashew pesto with poached free range eggs, smoked paprika and spinach on sourdough, $14

These poached eggs were glorious, on great Dench bread spread with fantastic, rich red capsicum and cashew pesto.  Earthy smoked paprika was complemented by a herbaceous drizzle of good olive oil.  Simple yet smart, and seriously yummy.

Cheesy jaffle, $3.50

There's a kids' section of the menu that is intelligent and well priced, and therefore BRILLIANT.  Scrambled eggs on proper toast ($4) went down a treat, and I love these old school jaffles!  Once upon a time, before sandwich, I mean, panini makers went all flat-plated on us, many an after-school snack was made like this.  The edges are crimped down to create two golden hot pockets of melty yellow cheese.

The lunch menu looks great, with a free range chicken schnitzel with Italian slaw and garlic aioli I've got my eye on.  They're licensed and have a couple of fun ciders on the menu.  Sweets continue to gently bend the boundaries with a walnut and bourbon tart, as well as old school lamingtons.

I can't wait to try more of Chicco's confident and clever menu.  What a lovely fresh face in Seddon village.



Chicco (turn sound down if at work!)
77 Charles Street, Seddon
Hours:  Wed-Mon 8am-4pm (closed Tuesdays)



View Footscrayfoodblog reviews in a larger map

West 48, Essex Street

It started badly.  On a backstreet in Footscray, Mr Lockie the butcher used to stand in his smart white coat.  Every Christmas he had a wonderful list of Christmas ham orders in his spidery writing on a long sheet of butcher's paper.  "Mabel, 1 ham.  Doris, 1/2 ham" and on it went, a community ritual it seemed was repeated year after year.

(Source: Google Maps)

Then one day, a sign was stuck to the door reading, "Closing down.  X years at this spot.  Landlord turning into units".  He closed, taking his ruddy cheeks and wonderful concave butcher's block with him.  Then the bloody landlord painted over the heritage sign.  The forlorn shops stood empty for an age.

Slowly, signs of life emerged.  A bench.  Stools.  "Please, please, not another hairdresser," we prayed, as visions of macchiatos danced in our heads.  And as if by magic, we have a new community hub for a new era - the wonderful West 48.

Of course it's not magic - owners Jagdev and Steffan have put a lot of effort into this lovely cafe.  There's the de rigeur raw wood, bare bulbs and distressed brick, and I love the happy yellow stools and sunset-orange cups.

The menu is quite simple, showcasing seasonal produce - there's no real kitchen, only a small prep area.  Think honeyed ricotta, buffalo mozzarella or top-notch Cuca sardines with lots of good bread.

West 48 use Allpress coffee with two separate blends for milk coffee and black.  A lovely, lovely latte, silky from neck to knees.  Coffees are $3.50 with no extra for soy (@cubbieberry, here's looking at you, kid).

This prawn sandwich ($12), with rocket and golden aioli made with organic eggs, was divine.  The prawns burst gently upon biting, their sweet juices mixing with the luscious mayo.

Now - I am a food blogger.  Out of "necessity", I rarely go to the same place twice (yes, I know, ridiculous #firstworldproblem) and if I do, I even more rarely order the same thing.

I went back the very next day and ordered the very same thing.

This is like the poor man's Golden Fields lobster roll.  The prawns are so fresh and the aioli is utterly unctuous.  Today's had watercress instead of rocket, and the piquancy of the greens is just perfect against the rich filling.

A perfectly-executed long mac.  Gorgeous - like melted 80% cocoa chocolate.

 

In an era of mega malls and chain stores, I relish this new reclamation of the backstreets.  Ebi, the Milking Station, Los Latinos and now West 48 are preventing our neighbourhoods turning into nothing but dormitory suburbs packed with units.  We need great places we can dawdle to and stagger home from.  We need places to run into each other.  We may have lost our butcher, but we have two lovely new friends in Jag and Steffan.  Viva West 48.

I would love it if you would consider voting for me in the Sydney Writers' Centre Best Australian Blogs 2012 People's Choice competition.  If you would like to, just click on the blue and yellow widget in the sidebar (email/RSS subscribers, pop over to the site) and follow the prompts.  :)




West 48 (Facebook)
48 Essex Street, Footscray
Phone:  0431 611 474
Hours:  Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, Sat & Sun 8am-4pm



View Footscrayfoodblog reviews in a larger map